SALA

5 out of 5 stars

The first thing you think of Sala, when going to this place, is how inaccessible it is. Sure, it may be neighboring Greenbelt 5, but the only way to get here is to walk through a maze of streets, nary a parking slot available next to it. But don’t let its inaccessibility deter you --- it’s a small sacrifice for what could probably be your best restaurant experience.

When you go up the stairs of the building and see the big banners spelling Sala per letter, you wonder how you could have missed their signage driving through Makati Avenue. And then when you reach the top, you are pleasantly surprised at the building you see in front of you. It’s actually quite small, a one-storey building sandwiched in between the PLDT Building and Locsin Building (where the British Embassy is). To even call it a building would be ironic, because it looks more like a room with glass and cement walls and a thick metal ceiling. But instead of detracting from its ambience, it only adds to it, making it more charming and intimate despite its modern furnishings.

Sala used to be in Malate, Manila. But they relocated to Makati, making it more accessible to yuppies and professionals in the business district. To make things easier, Sala was divided into both Sala and Sala Bistro, the first being their fine-dining version and the latter being the more laid-back branch in Greenbelt 3, which serves up Sala’s famed Sunday Champagne Jazz Brunch. These restaurants, along with People’s Palace, are owned by chef and entrepreneur Colin McKay. He hired Chef Carlo Miguel, of Mezzaluna fame, to be its Executive Chef early 2008, who started cooking up new dishes, keeping old Sala favorites.

Sala is simple, yet contains sophisticated hints of luxurious upholstery, smoked mirrors and shell-shaped sconces. It is mainly in white, with its floor, tablecloths, walls and raised ceilings. And it is complimented by the warm brown colors of the wooden side paneling and chairs. There is nothing which stands out architecturally, because they expect the setting to be a blank canvas for its food. Service is on spot, with the waiters being attentive but not hovering. Upon entering, they even offered me a bag hook to hang mine by the side of the table.

There were only 13 dishes to order for that day covering both appetizers and entrees, fitting in one page. Changing their menu every several weeks make up for the small number dishes offered, so that next time you visit, you’d have a fresh set of choices. While we placed our orders, we were offered bread from a metal basket carried by the waiter, which for that day was a chewy rosemary bread sprinkled with sea salt as well as sesame lavosh, which is a crisp, unleavened flat bread. They also set 3 small quiches in front of us, our amuse bouche. It looked deceptively plain, a normal pie with cheese melted on top. But when you bite into it, there was a burst of flavors that told you what you were eating wasn’t just any quiche. The phyllo pastry crust was perfectly flaky, which grounded the other flavors of portabella mushroom, cream spinach and cheese. It was meaty, yet light; creamy yet zesty. Eating something like this raised the bar for the dishes that we ordered.

And we were not disappointed. Far from it. Our appetizer of Twice Baked Souffle with Prawns, Feta and Dill (420 PhP) as well as the Portabella mushroom, ricotta and thyme ravioli with parmesan and white truffle oil (460 PhP) were both divinely inspired. The soufflé has been a best-selling mainstay since Malate, and has never failed to please. The soufflé has been baked hours ahead of time, and baked once again to form a crispy, cheesy crust, where the chef surrounds the plate with even more parmesan and feta cheese, garnished with basil, to make it more decadent. While the crust is crisp, the inside remains creamy and delicate, with the feta, prawns and dill blending seamlessly with the beaten egg and flour mixture.

Twice Baked Souffle with Prawns, Feta and Dill (420 PhP)

While the soufflé is rich and decadent, the ravioli is refreshing and savory. Homemade ravioli pasta is stuffed with light ricotta cheese and portabella mushroom cooked in truffle oil, its mild-smoky flavor giving way to the tart flavor of fennel and orange slaw that beds the pasta. Rocket microgreens is used as a garnish, as well as a side of basil oil and another side of truffle oil. When you bite into the perfectly al dente pasta, its delicate ricotta flavor is played up by slaw, teasing you with its light, acidic notes. You feel revived, yet satisfied, and all the more expectant of your main course.

Portabella mushroom, ricotta and thyme ravioli with parmesan
and white truffle oil (460 PhP)

The entrees were a sight to behold, its plating quite brilliant. The Minted Lamb Loin and Confited Lamb Shoulder with Eggplant Mashed Potatoes, Roast Peppers and Pomegranate Molasses jus (960 PhP) was the most experimental and playful. The Lamb Loin was seared and baked perfectly medium rare. It was pink on the inside and it was so tender and juicy. Mint encircled the lamb loins to offset its aftertaste. It was accompanied with a bed of diced zucchini and pomegranates, the latter picking up the sweet flavor of the lamb dripping sauce that was spiked with the same fruit. The entire thing was topped with the confited lamb shoulder, where the process involves it roasting duck fat after marinating overnight in spices. It was well worth the process because it brought a rich, earthy side of the lamb. We all loved how the sweet flavor of the zucchini and pomegranates lent itself to the rich taste of the meat. There were much textures and flavors involved, and you can’t help but leisurely savor every bite.

Minted Lamb Loin and Confited Lamb Shoulder
with Eggplant Mashed Potatoes, Roast Peppers
and Pomegranate Molasses jus (960 PhP)

We also picked the special of the day, which was a type of special Australian Tenderloin (900+ PhP). It was seared before putting in the oven. It was also very tender and it matched its side dishes of mashed potatoes, French beans and portabella mushroom well. We actually loved how they grilled the portabella mushroom to make it stay so soft and flavorful. It almost melted in your mouth, and brought a new dimension to the meat when you ate the mushroom with it. However, its jus was overpowering (maybe from the wine mixed with it) and we preferred eating the tenderloin with the side dishes alone.

Australian Tenderloin (900+ PhP)

Finally, we also chose the Grilled Australian Bobby Veal Tenderloin with Green Pea Risotto and Braised Veal Cheek with Smashed Root Vegetables (980 PhP). We loved how the taste was almost a yin-yang of flavors. The veal cheek to the left had an intense flavor, braised in a sauce that stood up to the strong flavors of the root vegetable siding. It was braised for such a time that it was literally fork-tender. I never even had to use a knife! Meanwhile, the veal tenderloin to the right had a mild taste, that was matched by the soft, pleasant flavor of the pea risotto. A sauce that was slightly sweet encircled it. It was fun alternating from the cheek to the tenderloin, then back, loving how the same ingredient could taste so different from the other. However, the tenderloin wasn’t as tender, and it was even sort of dry. But that may have been my fault since I told the kitchen to grill it medium well.

Grilled Australian Bobby Veal Tenderloin with Green Pea Risotto
and Braised Veal Cheek with Smashed Root Vegetables (980 PhP)

We were so stuffed from our appetizers and entrees that we didn’t even have room for dessert. But I heard that the panna cotta laced with berries is one to die for! If only we had more room to eat more of their creations. Good thing there’s a second visit, a third visit, a fourth visit….

p.s. pictures care of my photographer friend, Keisie Marfil :)

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Sala, Makati
Podium Level, Locsin Bldg., 6752 Ayala Ave. cor. Makati Ave.
Makati City, Metro Manila
(02) 750-1555
M, T, W, Th, F, Sa: 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
M, T, W, Th, F, Sa: 6:00 pm - 11:00 pm

ZUCCHINI'S

4.5 out of 5 stars

Zucchini's has transferred from the main thoroughfare of Timog Avenue to the quieter corner lot on Scout Tuazon. I have never been to the new restaurant, and being that the last time I've eaten there was when it was still in Timog, I was raring to try out their new location with my foodie friend Noni.

Upon entering, you're greeted with a big wooden wine rack centerpiece. Passing through this is a cozy but elegant room which can seat 40 people comfortably. On the far end wall are comfy banquet sofas, with themed artworks for sale hanging above them. There is also a separate air conditioned room for smokers in the opposite end. And unlike some other establishments, their ionzers work perfectly, so you don't smell the smoke even if the room is enclosed. We were unfortunate to eat here when there was a hurricane, so when we used the latter room post-mealtime, parts of it were dripping water.

Noni and I started with an appetizer, then he got a pasta for himself while I had lamb as main. We were nibbling on our freebie dinner rolls, while raving about their cutlery, oil/vinegar dispensers and pepper mill. Imagine, a pepper mill that can carry a year's supply of peppercorn, it's that big! Or how about an oil dispenser that carries balsamic vinegar at the same time? Table pieces like these can certainly carry a conversation, but of course Noni and I also caught up with a lot of things since we haven't met up in a while.

Bread Rolls

Oil and Vinegar Dispenser-in-One! HUGE Pepper Mill

We started with a Smoked Salmon and Mascarpone Terrine with cranberry-Port wine vinaigrette and apple-pecan salad (375 PhP). Terrine is basically a forced meatloaf cooked in a terracotta dish called terrine, where it is heated, pressed then cooled, with the end result forming a coat of jelly on top. In so many words, it is an extravagant cold meatloaf, usually popular with most high-end restaurants. To be honest, I wasn't fond of terrine in almost all of the times I've tried it. I remember my last terrine disaster was in Red, where I got a lobster terrine, and it tasted so fishy and was surprisingly sour. But this time, Noni just asked me salmon or carpaccio, and I answered salmon not knowing it'd be in a terrine since I didn't bother checking. If I knew otherwise, I wouldn't have ordered it. Thank God Noni didn't tell me, because when the appetizer with salad came to us, it was very, very delicious! The lettuce, apple-pecan as well as the terrine were all separated, with the vinaigrette tying them together as it was drizzled all over the plate. Each of them separately, as well as together, tasted so good. And the different ingredients bounced off one another perfectly. The salmon tasted even creamier with the mascarpone; the apples' sweetness was toned down with its creamy white sauce and pecans; the salad could stand on its own as it was encircled by peppers, olives and cherry tomatoes; and the cranberry-wine sauce gave the salmon a new taste to travel apart from being savory and creamy. Moreover, it was presented so beautifully. My only complaint was that I wish they gave a more generous slice of the terrine, haha!

Smoked Salmon and Mascarpone Terrine

Noni got the Tagliatelle Lobster and Gorgonzola (575 PhP). It's sauteed Pacific lobster in tomato basil cream sauce and gorgonzola cheese. Tagliatelle has the dimensions of a fettuccine, though I think it is a little thinner and thicker. The sauce was so rich, even if it looked delicate. I liked the fact that they loaded it with gorgonzola, so much so that I couldn't even taste the tomato component anymore! At least they weren't skimping on the ingredients. And the lobster...? I mean, how could I say anything wrong with lobster? This pasta is a winner....and I think it could even fit for two!

Tagliatelle Lobster and Gorgonzola

I got the Australian Lamb Chops (990 PhP), with a siding of mashed potatoes as well as the Minted Red Wine sauce and Bearnaise sauce. Bearnaise is basically egg yolk and butter reduced with vinegar. So I was thinking that was probably better than the Minted Red Wine Sauce because it was fattier than the latter. But the waiter's recommendation was correct. The Minted Red Wine Sauce paired better with the Lamb Chops. I was apprehensive about mixing mint with red wine, but it turns out that the mint flavor was very mild and was only there to round off the aftertaste of the lamb. My lamb was succulent and was grilled perfectly. It wasn't so tender, though, that it fell off the bone. By far, the best lamb I've EVER tasted was in Aresi, Subic (review to come). But still, this one tied for a good second or third, along with the likes of Gourmand. My dish also had a generous helping of vegetables and mashed potatoes. I was so full that I didn't even get to eat any of the sidings. I certainly took pictures of it, though, since the presentation was excellent and very creative. There was even a potato slice that was branded with a "Zucchini's" in the center of the plate containing the mashed potatoes.

Australian Lamb Chops

Noni and I were so full that we didn't even bother with dessert. We just sat back and talked some more as our friend Marco followed for some cigarettes and green iced tea at a neighboring bakery. What a great way to eat through summer.... No stress, delicious food, intense conversations and adventurous foodie friends to dine with!

If you're ever in the Tomas Morato area, this is certainly one of the top food destinations to eat in. In all the years it has remained open, it has consistently served good food and the staff is very accommodating. No wonder it has kept a solid reputation among food lovers, to the point that most do not even write about it because it is painfully obvious that it's a great restaurant. So why am I writing about this? It's to urge the handful of you out there who haven't tried it yet to come here already! Haha!

Zucchini's
#20 Scout Tuason cor. Scout Castor
Quezon City, Metro Manila
(02) 376-5896

Su, M, T, W, Th, F, Sa: 11:00 am - 3:00 pm
Su, M, T, W, Th, F, Sa: 6:00 pm - 11:00 pm

LEMURIA revisited

4 out of 5 stars

Going here again affirms my rating that this is a four star restaurant. If you haven't read my previous review on this, check it out here.

Such rating only means that the positive outweighs the negative. Enough for people like me to rave about it and revisit after some time. One of the good things I notice from the get-go is its impeccable service. When you have your car valeted, it just shows up parked in the front driveway without having to wait. The waiters are unobtrusive, but they appear out of nowhere with the slightest raise of your hand. They are kind enough to provide the ladies' bags with its own low stool. And most importantly, they are very familiar with the dishes, as well as changes that have been done with it.

Another factor to rave about would be the dramatic landscape. Upon entering the candle-lit driveway with lush side gardens, you're reminded of being in a secret sanctuary away from the congested city.

It's been half a year since my last visit. And the waiter said that they've changed the menu twice since then, changing it after every three months. Was excited to try out a totally different menu, but ordered an old-timer from the main course because it was one of their specialties.

Let's start with the bread dips and amuse bouche (freebies!)

One of the bread slices was made of poppyseed, the other wheat. It came with the standard butter spread and sun-dried tomato pesto spread. The poppyseed tasted good by itself or with butter, its fruity flavor competing with the tomato spread.

The amuse bouche was composed of tomato creme brulee and a blin. I hate how some restaurants experiment with flavors and end up messing the dish. For example, rosemary ice cream, when executed poorly would just be a waste of ingredients. In this case, the panna cotta wins snaps not just for being creative, but also flavorful. The creme in the dish was composed of a rich cheesy paste, torched on the surface. It complemented the big piece of sun-dried tomato that was found at the bottom of its ramekin.

However, the blin with sour cream and caviar was less delicious. The caviar tasted sort of fishy, and the sour cream seemed to spread the fishiness althroughout. The toppings found in this blin is the classical way Russian serve blinis, tasting almost like a savoury buckwheat pancake.

Front: Tomato Panna Cotta, Blin with Sour Cream and Caviar
Back: Sun-dried tomato pesto spread and butter

Lemuria also happens to have a winery. But as much as I was tempted to pair one with my lamb, I decided to choose a refreshing strawberry-banana smoothie since I was still curing the remnants of that day's hangover. Bodies don't bounce back the way they used to when you're in your late twenties.

strawberry-banana smoothie

We had an appetizer of Seared Foie Gras, Braised Cabbage and Fig Glaze (880 PhP). It's exactly what was written, with its own drippings mixed with a hint of fig as a glaze sauce. I would've liked my foie gras seared a little more, preferring the one that was cooked in Verbena, which was a bigger and tastier piece. I personally found this appetizer overpriced since it cost as much as my main course of lamb shank. Yet, I liked that it was paired with (braised cabbages), as its subdued taste highlighted the rich taste of the liver. Some have been paired with candied fruit, and their taste overwhelmed the liver, which should be the star of the plate.

Seared Foie Gras, Braised Cabbage and Fig Glaze

For main, I had Braised Lamb Shank, Apricots and Red Wine Sauce (880 PhP). I could see why this is an old-timer in the menu. The shank was huge, and marinaded in rich wine sauce all the way to the bone. The meat was really tender, and the portions were so generous that I didn't even finish all of the lamb. It came with a starch siding of polenta, as well as candied apricots and cocktail onions. The polenta went well with the lamb because it had a blander taste than mashed potatoes, absorbing the yummy lamb sauce quite well. However, the candied apricots was not good at all, and it actually tasted quite stale. I didn't eat the rest because apart from the stale taste, it was too overpowering, smelling like (oddly enough) incense. I finished the onions, though, because it was baked to the point of being succulent and sweet, much better than the apricots themselves.

Braised Lamb Shank, Apricots and Red Wine Sauce

The other main was Kurobuta Pork Belly (760 PhP). It was "baked in a salt crust and served with pink peppercorn sauce and fennel slaw." The waiter came over and presented the pork belly enveloped in a salt crust with different colored peppercorns. You had to crack the crust, then the waiter would pry the belly out and serve it in another plate where the fennel was arranged. Quite a unique presentation, so I decided to call the pictures "before" and "after," haha.

"Before"
the salt crust

"After"
Kurobuta Pork Belly

Keep your diet at home when eating this dish. When you've tasted your first bite, you could almost feel your arteries constricting! But as can be seen from the crust it was baked in, the flavor of the belly is intense, and not like any other belly you find in typical grilleries. It is also paired with Fennel slaw since anything richer would just be redundant. As much as I liked this dish, it would have been good if they could have added a starch siding to this plate. We ended up grabbing some of the polenta from my plate while munching on the belly. Also, it would be good to have a drink that cuts through the fat and taste when eating pork belly. An iced tea or better yet, a red wine would be great with it. Finally, I wouldn't recommend getting foie gras and pork belly to follow, like what we did, unless you want to end up having a heart attack.

I thought we would have ended with a bang with our Valrhona Chocolate Souffle Cake, like the last time I ate this exact dessert. Unfortunately, it wasn't as good as before. And it wasn't even the ice cream that they've changed from Mandarin Orange Glacee to Cinnamon. The ice cream was actually delicious on both occasions. I just noticed that the cake itself was smaller, and drier. As much as chocolate "lava" spewed out when you pressed the souffle, the inside wasn't as moist as I remembered. Valrhona is a brand for a company that produces high-end vintage chocolate made from beans of a single year's harvest from a specific plantation, namely Madagascar, Trinidad and Valenzuela. Adding such chocolate in the souffle didn't help the dessert bake any better, though the rich, bitter chocolate was there. This was probably just a fluke, and I'm willing to give this dessert benefit of the doubt. That's how blown away I was with the last time I tasted this dessert.

Valrhona Chocolate Souffle with Cinnamon Ice Cream

No matter how much side comments I have on this place, it doesn't erase the fact that this is one of the best fine-dining restaurants in the city, constantly innovating its dishes and maintaining its solid reputation for a memorable night out eating. This is probably one of the few restaurants I will update on more than once, twice, thrice....

menus. appetizers. soups. main.

Closed on Mondays
Lemuria & The Winery
5 Julieta Circle, Horseshoe Village
Quezon City

7245221; 7222185; 7245192; 7215352
mob: 09175250129

LEMURIA

4 out of 5 stars

My good friend and foodie, Anna, went with me on our culinary quest for new restaurant haunts. This one is called Lemuria, a cozy restaurant tucked in Horseshoe village. Proprietress Marina Bru Schroeder says that they intend on keeping the privity of this establishment, but I think this gastronomic delight won't remain secret for long. Word-of-mouth has spread like wildfire, and blogs like Anton's have done full-length reviews on it.

I, for one, have heard raves about this place, which I downplayed so that I wouldn't end up disappointed in case they overcompensated the descriptions. Folks, there's no room for exaggeration, after all --- this is the new hole-in-the-wall DATE find! The descending driveway to the restaurant is reminiscent of Antonio's, though on a smaller scale since it's right smack in the city. Candlelit stairwells lead to the entrance with "Lemuria" discreetly placed on the side of the wall. In fact, one would not see this sign from the outside, with only two other cornersigns from the street saying "The Winery" to indicate their wine cellar found in the restaurant's basement.

The interior is small, fitting only around 20 people. It looks much larger, though, because they put an entire wall-length mirror to one side, and the grilled arches leading to the kitchen also have mirrors in it. The design is very "French Bistro," with just the right amount of yellow light to make you feel as if the entire room's bathed with candlelight. Service is prompt and responsive, mainly because there are more waiters than necessary (but heck, for the amount you're paying, who cares?).

We both started with fresh grape shakes and soup. Anna had the "Mushroom and Gruyere," while I had the "Tomato Consomme flavored with Tea." The shake was average, probably a little better than Cibo's because the grape skin was less perceptible. On the other hand, their soup (or mine, at least) was a winner! The clear broth tasted refreshing but savoury at the same time. I was worried that the tea would not mix well with the tomato consomme, but somehow, they made it work. Its presentation was just as delectable --- the clear brown consomme contrasting well with the reds of the diced tomato, greens of the alfalfa sprouts and yellow of the small mounds of cheese.

For main, Anna had the "Grilled Salmon, Corn and Mushroom Crepe with Spinach." She said the fish was good, along with the "deceiving" crepe because it was heartier and more filling than how it actually looked. My "Veal Chop, Sweetbread and El Shallot Sauce" was also delicious, but not extraordinary. The veal wasn't too tender, such that I had to request for a steak knife, while its siding of mashed potatoes was forgettable. What redeemed it was the sweetbread (viand made of the thymus/pancreas of calves) which didn't have a bad aftertaste that usually comes from bad prepping/quality. It blended well with the shallot gravy and the cocktail onions, where the latter were surprisinlgy fresh and not pickled.

The "Valrhona Chocolate Souffle with Mandarin Orange Glacee" was literally and figuratively the dinner's icing on the cake! They bake it fresh so it's a 15-minute wait. The wait is worth it though, considering how nice and tasty the dessert was! The souffle was crunchy on the outside and gooey on the indside, just as how every souffle and lava cake should be. The orange glacee (almost like ice cream, but mixed with merengue) was piled creatively on top of a triangular sugar crust that was supported by small mango scoops. Hardened caramel drizzle, a shaved white chocolate triangle, a fluted brown chocolate stick and a fanned strawberry completed this colorful dish. At first I didn't think that the orange cream would pair well with the chocolate, but the glacee's taste was so mild that it didn't overpower the souffle at all. It was actually a little too mild for my taste because I never even tasted the mandarin oranges at all. But anyway, the dessert still tasted great, and I guess that's all that counts, even with all the mile-long phrases they put into the menu to define one dish.

A meal would probably cost 600 to a grand without the frills, depending on the entree that you order. But in a place like this, you might as well go all out and order from appetizers to dessert, which would cost you around 1500-2000 a head with shake. It would probably cost around 2000 to a little more if you accompany your meal with a bottle of wine, depending on the number of guests and the quality of wine. Their wines are extensive (they have a wine cellar, after all!) , and according to anton's blog, their reislings are recommended. Since we were just two and I didn't want to get just their house wine, we settled for a rain check. We'll be sure to come back with our Pinot Noirs and Sauvignon Blancs! In the meantime, we'll be hitting the gym burning off that dinner. No regrets.

Lemuria PART 2

Closed on Mondays
Lemuria & The Winery
5 Julieta Circle, Horseshoe Village
Quezon City

7245221; 7222185; 7245192; 7215352
mob: 09175250129

Su, M, T, W, Th, F, Sa: 10:00 am - 9:00 pm